Trattoria Mario
A lunch-focused market trattoria behind the Mercato Centrale, run by the same family since 1953, where strangers share tables over ribollita, slow-cooked ragù and rare bistecca.
Mario opened in 1953 as a wine counter for the porters and butchers of the Mercato Centrale, and the family still runs it under a sixteenth-century oak coffered ceiling on Via Rosina. There are no lunch bookings: give your name at the door and you will be seated with whoever is already there. The menu changes daily, but the bistecca, cooked only rare, the four-hour ragù and the ribollita are always on it, alongside dishes of the day such as trippa and peposo. Lunch runs Monday to Saturday; dinner is Friday only, except in July.
Best for: Shared-table market lunch













