Al Tranvai

A long, narrow trattoria on leafy Piazza Tasso, built like a tram car, serving a short daily menu of homestyle Florentine cooking and offal to a mostly local crowd.

Al Tranvai has held its corner of Piazza Tasso, at the quiet far edge of San Frediano, since 1985. The name is the whole brief: the room is long and skinny like a tram car, with a bright green tram front splitting the dining room from the open kitchen and old photos of Florence's streetcars on the wood-paneled walls. The menu is short and changes daily, leaning on Florentine home cooking and a real fondness for offal. It sits well off the tourist trail, and Florentines fill it, so call ahead.

Best for: A local weeknight trattoria dinner