Ruffian

An East Village wine bar and chef's counter devoted to Eastern European natural wine, where chef Jes Monroe's seasonal, spice-inflected plates meet a list of more than 250 bottles.

Ruffian opened on East 7th Street in 2016 as a tiny bar, its 10 seats set around a pale poured-stone counter within reach of the kitchen, and added a dining room in 2021 in the former Big Gay Ice Cream space. Partner Patrick Cournot runs a list of more than 250 bottles focused on Eastern European natural wine, from Georgia and Slovenia to Austria and Greece. Chef Jes Monroe pairs local seasonal produce with spice-inflected Eastern European flavors, in plates like spicy beef salad with cashews and cabbage rolls with salsa macha. Tasting menus, flights and wine classes round it out.

Best for: Adventurous wine and small plates at the bar