Via Carota

A West Village institution where the wait outside is just part of the ritual, and the food justifies every minute of it.

Rita Sodi and Jody Williams built something rare here: a room that feels like it's been serving the neighborhood for decades, all exposed brick and mismatched chairs and the low hum of good conversation. The kitchen doesn't reinvent Tuscan cooking so much as perfect it. That green salad alone has spawned countless imitators, but nobody's cracked the dressing. Go on a weeknight around 5:30 if you want a table without the wait, or embrace the crowd and have a glass of wine at the bar while you watch the room fill up.

Best for: Long lunches and dinners with people you don't want to rush