Lilia

Missy Robbins turns handmade pasta into the main event at this sun-washed Williamsburg standby, where the char from the wood-fired oven perfumes the whole room.

The mafaldine with lobster and the fusilli with cacio e pepe-style richness aren't just popular, they're the reason people book a month out. Grilled branzino and market vegetables come off the wood fire with real smoke and edge, balancing a menu that could otherwise lean too rich. Ask for a seat near the open kitchen if you can get it; the energy of the line is half the show.

Best for: ["Date Night","Special Occasions","Pasta Lovers"]