Pastis

Keith McNally's zinc-bar Parisian brasserie returns to Gansevoort Street with Stephen Starr behind the stove, still slinging steak frites to a room that likes to be seen.

The subway tiles, globe lights, and mosaic floor recreate the original 1999 Pastis that helped turn the Meatpacking District into a destination, this time built new for $8 million a few doors from where it stood. Executive input from Starr's team keeps the kitchen firing classics like escargots and trout amandine alongside newer additions such as boudin blanc, served from breakfast through last call. Sit at the curved bar for oysters and a carafe of rosé, or grab a sidewalk table when the weather cooperates.

Best for: Scene-y all-day French dining and people-watching in the Meatpacking District