Kiki's

A no-frills Greek taverna on Division Street turning out fresh seafood and lamb to a packed, downtown crowd.

Behind an unmarked storefront that once housed a Chinese print shop, Kiki's serves straightforward Greek cooking — grilled octopus, whole branzino, saganaki, lamb chops — under exposed wood beams and low light. There's no sign, no reservations for small parties, and often a line, but the kitchen's commitment to simple, honest plates has made it a fixture of the Lower East Side dining scene.

Best for: Casual dinners with friends, no-reservations walk-in nights, sharing mezze before a night out in Dimes Square