FAAK Cibo e Vino a Ribellione Naturale

Chef Viviana Varese's all-day project in Scalo Farini pairs a working bakery and pizza-and-grill kitchen with a list of small-producer natural wines.

Housed in a black-toned, iron-and-ceramic space designed with a rock-club edge, FAAK runs from morning coffee and croissants through lunch, aperitivo and dinner. The kitchen leans on live-fire cooking and sourdough leavening, plumbing Varese's early years as a pizzaiola, while an open lab turns out jams, spreads and juices sold to take home. Reviewers keep returning for the octopus off the grill, the reworked ossobuco, and a brunch built around an extensive egg menu.

Best for: All-day dining from breakfast pastries to a brace-fired dinner, especially weekend brunch